andyh wrote:
Possibly but not neccessarily. We are obv talking water cooled here. A simple cause of cold heaters is often that the foam that covers the flap that diverts hot/cold air in the heater box has disintegrated. This means you can never shut off the cool air so your heater runs cold (especially when you need it most!). Sometimes heater matrices furr up, often because someone tried to fix a leak in the cooling system with radweld. Or they used heavily scaly water over a period of time. Sometimes there are valves which are designed to stop the heater matrix bursting and cooking your feet when the car overheats. These valves can fail and block off the supply to the heater matrix. There are plenty of reasons why a water cooled car's heater may go cold is what I'm saying innit

.

Coco wrote:
Sorry, AFAIK is internet shorthand for 'as far as I know'

dubmeup wrote:
Absolutely, although I was hoping to infer that this was immediately after overheating, lol

Griswald wrote:
Hmmm have you ever had to deal with double glazing that ended up with condensation in between the panes?

dubmeup wrote:
Trust me Dub, when you are in a hole its best to stop digging. They dont over heat in traffic. The car does not have to be moving for an aircooled engine to maintain a correct temperature, as it has a driven fan in the cooling tower of the engine. And you dont run a heater in an aircooled engine either. Its heat from the heat exchangers, and whether open or shut , they do nothing for the engine temperature.
I can see we are going to have our hands full teaching you mechanics Dub, now fek off into the corner, and put that pointy hat on

andyh wrote:
Yes.

If you are sure that the condensation is between the panels, then the unit seal has failed, and if its an argon filled unit, then its scrap. As replacement units are relatively cheap, you are best to buy a new one. There is no practical method of a diy repair I,m afraid. Its hard to seperate the gasket seal material from the glass, so its a non runner. If you are into gardening, then you could keep it for making a few cold frames, or collect a load of them from the local glazers, and make a small greenhouse.

The greenhouse idea is deffo a good one.
This new place I've moved into has dozens of dg units buggered just like that all over the place.
Cowboy job when they were fitted no doubt....

The landlords going to sort it but it aint gonna be cheap given how many units there are like this lol.

Howzaboot one of these with a cement mixer engine att = 150 + mpg air cooling as standard.

www.greenspeed.com.au/Anura%20Q.1200.jpg

Griswald wrote: You're disagreeing with many many people that have had it happen there gris Bugs abd campers are renowned for it A fan blowing hot air doesn't do much cooling EDIT, I've just had a look and apparently a lot of these overheating issues ARE caused by people fiddling with the cooling system. Probably watercooled heads like me thinking frickin crap aircooleds and hitting them with hammers Actually I think you're right there having thought about it On a beetle the heat exchangers take heat from the exhaust manifold don't they? So yes I can see that I may have fekked up there. oops. It would have an effect, running the heater on one but nowhere near as much as I was saying. It'd be minimal. I'll admit I was wrong there.Granted, it does seem you could teach me a thing or two about aircooled mechanics. That said, I probably wouldn't be listening You may have noticed I'm not a fan of them. When VW added water to the boxer engine they did a very very good thing in my opinion. I know what you aircooled lot are like though and how highly you regard them. each to their own

I'll only comment on real cars in future

andyh wrote:
Oh yeah, if your heater went cold after the car had got a bit um hot then yes, that wouldn't be a good sign for the health of the head You might notice the odd other interesting effect at the time too hahaha

The Apprentice wrote: No ta

Check this oit

For my punishment after serving my time on the highly technical Japanese bikes I spent many years as a car mechanic. In those years I worked deveral years as an RAC mechanic and there was one make that frequented the roads back then we very rarely got called out to and that was the lovely Lada, the ones we did we got every one going again.
There was also lots of taxi firms locally that used them by choice and they regulary reached half a million miles.

Worst car was the Ford Escort, which I got a commendation from the RAC for working out how to stop a certain fault from happening on the next years model.

dubmeup wrote:
I can see we will have to disagree. You prefer the wasserboxer engine, fair enough...............





But it was such a crap engine , it was discontinued after only 9 years

Each to their own Dub

The Apprentice wrote: What was this Escort fault you sussed? I'm intrigued.

The Apprentice wrote:
I had a Lada embassy car one time. It was a 2 litre version, and it was built like a tank.

griswald

Griswald wrote: When I sold my T25 with a waterboxer in, the engine was on about 250,000 and still pulled like a train. It was a 1.9 DG and despite the bus weighing maybe 3 times as much as a beetle, it had comparable MPG, went up hills better, better acceleration etc etc. So yes I'd say the wasserboxer was better. (As long as you kept the antifreeze levels right ) Subaru seemed to like the wasserboxer too eh And oh who else?

dubmeup wrote:
Fault was if you bought one you got stuck on the side of the road

Griswald wrote:
Haha Fixed Or Repaired Daily

Actually gris lets bury the air/water hatchet and spend a moment rejoicing in the inspired engineering of the boxer engine